J and A in Africa: 1 June - Maasai village, Tarangire National Park

First day of safari! Left Arusha and headed off towards Tarangire National Park first, via a Maasai village in the Monduli region. We had a Maasai guide for that part. It was a beautiful hour or so's drive - from the flat sparse land we'd been driving through, we turned off and in no time were in a jungley mountainous setting. Lush greenery everywhere. Half expected a leopard to jump out from the trees!

Passed through the mountains and saw the village in a large circular valley that looked somewhat like a big crater. Was really interesting: traditional thatched huts made of mud and cow dung, women in robes wearing beads and other jewellery, including the big earrings that stretch the earlobes, cows all around with cowbells and a cow pen secured with only brush and acacia thistles. Cute kids were very interested in us, stroking our hair and skin!

They also loved the camera and looking at photos of themselves!

Some was a bit set up – they'd organised a maasai dance (a lot of jumping!) and cow branding (horrible and prolonged – the cow was very distressed). We were pretty much told to buy some beaded bracelets that the women had made, most of which we didn't really like but we dutifully bought some. Also guilted into 'tipping' the dancers. Oh well, tourist territory. Still enjoyed it though we stressed over appropriate amounts to tip.

On the drive to Tarangire, saw some Maasai boys along the road wearing black (rather than traditional red and other colours) with their faces painted white... heard an interesting story from our guide about a circumcision ceremony to initiate teenage boys into manhood. It's held only once every 6 years for boys from all surrounding villages between the ages of 14-19, and they dress this way for around 3 months (from memory) following the ceremony, so we were lucky to catch them.

Maasai men marry more than one woman, but apparently there are more women than men so no men miss out on wives??! Not sure how this works out; must admit we expressed a little doubt over our guide's explanation of that one. We passed the village of one rich Maasai doctor who apparently has 33 wives! More money means more cows means more wives to buy. Lovely.

Afternoon and morning game drives in Tarangire National Park - didn't see too many animals but the park itself was beautiful. Baobab trees are amazing - huge and prehistoric and fairytale looking, like the magic faraway tree. Elephants have peeled the bark off most, and some even have huge holes all the way though, but are still living. They can live for thousands of years so have probably been dealing with these enormous pachyderms for a while.